Imagine That!

Who would have thought I’ll be conducting summer workshops for kids.

But here I am. Imagine That!

Yes, that’s the name.

It’s not about maths or science. I barely passed, what am I going to teach the kids?

Not arts and crafts either. How many pots will kids paint? Or pieces of cloth embroider? Or… umm, or… See, I’m already out of ideas.

Imagine That! is, as the name says, about thinking and unleashing the kids’ imagination.

There are separate age-groups, with separate sets of activities. The poster says it all.

So, here’s where I need your help.

If you have kids or know someone who has kids, between 5 and 15, send them for this Creative Writing workshop this May. Venue is Cafe Linger On, Baner Road, .

There are goodies to win from Café Linger On and discounts on membership at Tender Leaves.

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Riverside history in Pune

The banks of Mutha, one of the two major rivers that supply water to Pune, have more than their share of history to talk about. Old-timers will remember the day when the Panshet dam fractured its walls and overflowed into the Mutha river, submerging most of Pune city under deep waters.

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Devastation ruled for several weeks. But after the waters receded, the resilience of Puneri people shone through. As did the many splendid architectural wonders. Lying in wait for the flood to ebb, after having stood firmly against Mutha’s raging fury, these structures were testimony to man’s grit and determination to survive against all odds.

Still standing tall today, these beautiful masterpieces, some of them a few centuries old, however are in danger of being swept away by a new kind of flood – real estate. Already dwarfed by commercial monstrosities, these magnificent temples, nostalgic wadas (old-style homes) and even stone bridges are in danger of being forgotten.

If you wish to visit this part of Pune’s history, or if you wish to step away from the maddening rush of today’s life to snatch a few moments of peace and introspection, or if you just wish to treat your senses to the beauty and intelligent architecture that was, then compel yourself to awaken early one day and take a walk down the road that runs alongside the Mutha.

To get started on this journey, take a 5 minute walk from Bal Gandharv Rang Mandir on JM Road, climb down the steps leading to the Omkareshwar Temple. As solitude sits beside you, gaze up and feel humbled, knowing that where you stand was nothing but swirling water for miles around, with just the dome of the temple visible. Step through the side exit from within the premises (ask anybody for the way to the ‘dhobi ghat’ – washerman’s jetty), come out to the river and let your feet take you where your heart desires to go. Every alley, every nook, every structure has a story to tell. And if you listen quietly, you might just hear its tale.

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Romancing South India

‘For gourmet and good eaters’, says the menu card at Coconut Grove, Bangalore. Consider yourself warned. Because if you’re nursing a mild hunger or just happen to be passing by, it isn’t the place for you; if you’re looking for a quick nibble, it isn’t the place for you; and if you’re looking to get back to work after having a meal here, it most certainly isn’t the place for you.

What it is, instead, is a haunt for food connoisseurs, a place to meet friends and unwind, slowly, over a few drinks, with lots to eat and plenty of time. You can’t do a quickie at Coconut Grove; it calls for a long-drawn, well-planned, courtship. Preferably one spread over several hours, couple of days a week.

Coconut Grove takes you (in its own words) ‘beyond the universally popular idlis, dosas and rassams’ to open up your taste-buds to a ‘spectacular gourmet cuisine redolent with evocative fragrances, age-old recipes and exotic cross-influences’. If that doesn’t get your taste buds in a stir, then nothing else can.

Succumb to fine cuisine from the highlands of Karnataka, the seacoasts of Kerala and the dry plains of Tamil Nadu – identified as Coorg, Konkan, Malabar and Chettinad. Each region lures you with its uniqueness. A wide assortment of vegetables, meat, chicken and seafood turns into lip smacking dishes, liberally seasoned with pepper, cloves, garlic, tamarind, raw mangoes and curry leaves, all tempered with the delicious and heady taste of a coconut base.

Spend time with the menu; seek assistance, which is gladly given. Ask for the best combinations; the haves and the must-haves. These perfectly-curried, piping-hot, tangy creations should only be pursued on an empty stomach. Every dish pairs off with the slightly-sweetish appams. Take a side order of pickled prawns, pork or bamboo to complete the gastronomic experience.

Coconut Grove calls itself a restaurant and bar. These fiery encounters can be calmed with a swig of chilled beer or butter milk. But the lull lasts only a while. Because the relationship with Coconut Grove begins, but never ends. You walk away, with lingering memories and an uncontrollable desire to come back again. For another languid afternoon spent romancing south India.

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Ghee masala dosa and other delicious short stories

When in Bangalore and attacked by idli-dosa cravings, you know there are options-aplenty, some that’ll even satisfy you adequately. But hold that thought, and the pangs if possible, before you decide to step inside the first south Indian fare serving restaurant you come across.

Instead, head to Woody’s on Raja Ram Mohan Roy. Located just off the road inside a fairly large yet quaint old bungalow, Woody’s welcomes you with its old-world charm. It’s almost like stepping inside somebody’s home. And it’s not just the ambience: even the waiters and the manager seem positively delighted to have you visit them.

Seat yourself down at the solid wood table and get ready to work your way through a not-so-typical idli-dosa-vada menu. Gorge yourself on supremely tasty, wholesome and interesting options. We started with a kabadu – an idli’s relative, but more oblong in shape and just as soft and delicious – with three different chutneys, ranging from spicy to very spicy.

Our appetites sufficiently whetted, we were ready for the next item – ghee masala dosa. Smelling heavenly, the dosa demonstrated the cook’s talents – crisp and soft in all the right places. And again the same delicious chutneys.

Do sample the Khara Bhaat (upma) or the Kesari Bhaat (sheera) – a savoury and sweet preparation of semolina. The Kesari Bhaat tends to run out quickly, so you might end up getting disappointed.

Disappointing are also the really small fruit juice glasses, and the dessert section. Nothing exciting there, but it’s alright. Given the fantastic spread they serve, you’ll be tempted to forgive them; perhaps praise them even, for being considerate.

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A heritage walk down Main Street

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The year is 1817. Pune boundary ends at Mutha river, beyond which lies a small British army encampment. With more troops gathering, the occupied territory is increased, engulfing the smaller villages around Pune, creating what is today known as Pune Cantonment.

Nearly two centuries have passed. The year is 2010. And history is now heritage – a splendid potpourri of architectural splendour for the quick eye and the lazy walk.

The streets and back alleys of Pune Camp (as it is commonly called) make for a perfect destination for an early morning stroll. It’s an opportunity to feast your eyes on some truly fascinating styles embracing cultures from around the world – Iranian, Jewish, British and of course, Maharastrian.

You’ll find it all here – temples, churches and synagogues; some standing tall, others tucked away in by-lanes and others hidden in plain sight, lost among the commercial sheen of Main Street. Imposing gothic structures rub shoulders with delicate Iranian stone carvings; houses open their beautifully-shuttered windows to you; and narrow lanes welcome you into their dark silences.

These century-old styles are lost to the world, waiting for one more glance from a history buff. Before the next commercial wave comes along, wiping away all trace of this ancient heritage. Turning it into lost history.

But words don’t do justice to this place. One visit, perhaps. Spend a few hours, for a week at least, to really appreciate the beauty of these back alleys.

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Cheer-ful weekends in Nasik

About 200 kilometres from Pune is a small town called Nasik – from the Sanskrit word Nasika, for nose. Legend goes that this is the spot where Lakshman (Ram’s brother) sliced-off Surpanakha’s (Ravan’s sister) nose when she began harassing the two brothers after they rejected her repeated advances. Then came Ravan, who made off with Sita (Ram’s wife), and thus goes one of the most famous battle legends of India.

Today the story attracts visitors by the hordes; people who want to take a slice of history back home. And then there are those who discover this side to the town quite accidentally. En route to sampling other newer attractions.

Welcome to Sula Vineyards – another remarkable legend of Nasik. The wine may not be something to write home about, but the drive there, the locale, the tour, the jolly guides – the overall experience – are really worth a visit. What could be better than kicking of your corporate shoes and slipping into a delicious wine-sampling mode for the weekend.

Sula was the first to introduce wine sampling and tours to India at their chateau. For a mere 150 rupees, you can enjoy a guided tour of the large estate and the plant. You can also sample five wines, accompanied by a pleasant explanation of each, in the Tasting Room – see, swirl, sniff and sip your way to the wine experience. Do try the Late Harvest Chenin Blanc, India’s first dessert wine.

Step out into the open Lounge to enjoy your wine and a delicious cheese platter amidst spectacular vistas of the vineyard, lush green hills and pristine lakes. A lovely slow day for the taking.

But these are just starters. To complete the Sula experience, take a walk around. Rolling landscapes and a large Greek-style amphitheatre greet you. Walk, lounge, lie down on the soft grass, gaze up at the sky. And as the day draws to a close, head to Little Italy or Kareem’s – excellent restaurants that serve you authentic Italian and classic Indian fare. Lip smacking food served by smiling hosts, accompanied by wine and a gorgeous sunset. Sigh, the perfect weekend comes to an end much before you’d want it to.

But the good news is that you can come back again. Any time is a good time to visit Sula. The harvesting and crushing season runs from January through March only. Time it well, and you could participate in the wine-making process as well, stomping away with glorious abandon.

There are several buses from Pune and Mumbai that will take you to Nasik, but driving down yourself is recommended. Sula Vineyards is about 12 kilometres from the centre of the town and with not much local transport you could find yourself in a bit of a sticky spot after a day of heady imbibing.

Or you could choose to stay at Beyond – a villa in the vineyard. A spacious 3 bedroom bungalow with a swimming pool and a personal chef who’ll serve specially prepared meals made from organic vegetables picked from Sula’s private garden. A word of caution though: the rates are incredibly steep and you would do well to check in advance for availability.

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Follow your nose

The delicious whiff of freshly-baked bread vies with the savoury trace of the vegetable pattice (stuffed pastry); the aroma of coconut pastries mingles with the sweetness of jam biscuits; and crisp, flaky, short-cut kharis (twisted biscuits) crane their crooked necks to catch your eye.

It’s a typical day at Santosh Bakery – busy and early. A family business going back three generations, every father-son duo works hard at satisfying the bakery cravings of Punekars with an almost religious zeal. Nothing less than perfect is acceptable. The batter, the now greatly-increased menu, the magical, never-ending supply, the quick service and of course, the quality. With the process going on nearly round-the-clock, everything at Santosh Bakery is fresh. The treats keep coming. And so does the crowd.

Is it savouries you seek? Or has your sweet tooth been nudging you lately? Perhaps you’re a traditionalist – bread and buns being more up your alley. The menu is just right, and nobody leaves empty-handed. Unless it’s the vegetable pattice you’re after.

One of the fastest-moving items, you need to time your visit to get your hands on this scrumptious delicacy – early morning or early evening. And be ready to brave the crowds. Not unruly or pushy-punchy, mind you. Santosh Bakery clientele is well-bred and  mindful of your need to go home victorious. It’s just that the wait could be slightly long, but well worth it. You can have the pattice right then, by the road or take them home to be had cold. Tastes wonderful either way.

While you’re waiting, we suggest you use your time constructively in deciding the rest of your shopping. In the sweet section you can choose from among cream-rolls, cashew nut biscuits, jam biscuits, coconut biscuits, cupcakes and coconut pastries. For savouries, there are twisted short-cut biscuits and their Bombay counterpart (short-cut pastry without the twist), jeera butter (cumin-flavoured, bun-shaped, hard biscuit), and toast (sliced bread that has been browned by heat) – a great accompaniment to tea.

Pune’s renown for bakeries is far and wide. So what makes Santosh Bakery so special? Is it the fondness for a place that has not succumbed to automation and still produces every product through human intervention? (You won’t find the regular gas or electric ovens here. It is coal and mud stoves that have been getting that inimitable Santosh Bakery flavour all these years.) Or is it the familiarity? Perhaps the list of delicacies? Perhaps the location? Perhaps all of it?

Being in the by lanes of Ghole Road does have its advantages. Like no traffic fumes to compete with; plenty of parking for patrons; as well as the occasional chuckle when you are quoted as a landmark – even by the popular hotels close by.

Open from 7 in the morning (6 on Sundays) till 9 at night, Santosh Bakery is considerate of Punekar’s busy schedules. Not that it would matter. Patrons would still queue up. Because Santosh Bakery makes it alright for us to have an oven at home – even if is just to warm up market-bought cookies. And to succumb to the indulgence (occasional or otherwise) of delicious bakery products. And to ignore good-intentions and instead follow the diktats of the nose.

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